Several years ago, I gave directions to the Camp at Gohere Bay to some friends who were coming up for a long weekend. Since they were first-time visitors, I added a few travel notes for them to take in along the way. All these years and nearly as many changes in e-mail addresses later, I came across these directions and wanted to share them with my followers, in case you wanted to join us for an evening or two with a beer wedged between the rocks with the cool sparkling waters of Gohere Bay to keep it cold.
Note - Directions are from the Chicago area
Directions to Gohere Bay - Take your favourite route out of Chicago. Heading out of Chicago, there is no one best way to leave the city or the state, as the traffic is so variable. My father was a huge fan of Route 47 that winds through Yorkville and farmland area. It is rather twisty and hilly so may not be best if you're pulling a boat or haven't yet finished your first cup of coffee. From Joliet, I like to take Route 52 west to Interstate 39, a lightly travelled patch of road. Route 53 works well , though has been overrun by the new 355 tollway in many areas.
Once you have escaped the congestion of Chicago, you should find yourself on Interstate 90-94. This is known in parts as the Veteran's Memorial Parkway or some such. It is rather scenic, especially further along. The traffic really thins out after the exits for the Dells and Mirror Lake but the toll collectors don't. I learned on my honeymoon that Wisconsin State Troopers gladly accept all major credit cards and can run them conveniently from their dashboard. It should be noted here that Wisconsin troopers drive stylishly dark green patrol cars that blend remarkably well with the scenic pine trees and such.
In Wisconsin, you will also notice a strange calmness from the steering wheel as they seem to have developed a vaccine for potholes that Illinois is seriously lacking. The highways are silky smooth and they have a whole other idea of divided highways. There are no flimsy metal dividers or threatening concrete barriers, but real, honest to goodness trees. And when they say divided, I'm talking lanes divided by nearly half a mile of forest or a hundred feet in elevation. All this provides lots of shady spots for those friendly troopers to rest while waiting for flat-landers and others.
The scenery can become redundant as the road straightens out. But keep an eye out for Moccasin Mike Road, no particular history, just like the name. All in all, this part of the trip should be about six or seven hours to Eau Claire, the traditional halfway point for us. The Oasis in Janesville is a popular stop and, at one time, was a busy rest spot on the main road, Route 53. Now it requires an exit from the interstate and is more tourist trap than anything, but nostalgia being what it is, I can almost picture the curtains in the back windows of the station wagon. The Dells can be an interesting stop, if you don't mind the traffic and crowds.
Take the exit for 53 North to Eau Claire. Eau Claire sits on the Chippewa River and is consistently listed among the most livable towns in America, whatever that means. For you, Eau Claire means a great place to stop, stay overnight if you're tired or get food. It also is the best place to pick up adult supplies such as beer or Canadian whisky. That's right, don't wait for the "Duty Free" stores at the border. The liquor is duty free no matter where you bought it so long as you don't have too much. Typically a bottle per person of legal drinking age. There are many places, I recommend Bob's. Have you ever seen an alcohol warehouse?
This is also the last of your major chain restaurants for a while so have a last Pizza Hut of Taco Bell.
As you leave Eau Claire, you will notice that Rte 53 is NOT an Interstate Highway. The billboards are 20 feet high and 10 feet wide in reflective yellow with black letters. What that means for the average traveller is that the federal speed limit allowing 65 mph is not in effect here. 55 is the rule for the most part, but there are tons of small towns with limits of 45, 35 and even 25. BE CAREFUL. The road is still Wisconsin's version of divided highway with interesting overpasses and, in many places, railroad tracks nearby. You will also notice as you head north that the roads begin to turn red. This is due to the iron content in the road mix. You will also notice that steep hills have two lanes headed uphill and only one coming down. Slower traffic to the right please and if you're driving the diesel with the heavy boat, that means you pull over and let others go by. On the way down, no passing is allowed in these areas. I'm not sure if you've ever been face to face with a logging truck, but it's not a good feeling. Also keep an eye out for Smitty's bar and restaurant and the Woodcarver's Museum in Spooner. This used to be on the main road, but now requires a side trip.
As thing start to leave out, you will close in on Superior, Wisconsin. Stop here and take a deep breath, look out at the majesty of Lake Superior, the biggest and nastiest of the Great Lakes. There are iron ore boats and museums as well as a huge mansion overlooking the Lake that was an orphanage for many years and is now a museum. On the right is one of the most scenically placed McDonald's anywhere. There is also a gas station along the right hand side of the road, near a bait shop, that has a pink rocket near the front of the lot. Just saying....
Now, after a deep breath, make sure you have the correct driver for the next leg. It's a doozy. Rte 53 will take you to Duluth, Minnesota, provided you remember to get off the Rte 2 loop that will take you endlessly to the seedier side of Superior. Once on the correct road, you will be twisted and looped until you find yourself about a mile above the water (hey, they need to get ore boats through). At this dizzying height, it may be difficult to concentrate, the highway department was kind enough to install green posts to block oncoming headlights, but one wrong turn sends you to Minneapolis (and really, who wants to go there). Should you survive the high level bridge (and I do mean high level), you will find yourself nearly back at lake level and looking up. Straight up. I have always wanted to own a brake shop in Duluth, maybe transmission repair as well. The main street through town is a serious test for the best of transmission cooling systems. Add in boats, manual transmissions and weekend drivers and it becomes a harrowing trip with a four-way stop in the middle.
There's a house along this road that is three stories on one side and a single story on the other side, that's how steep the hill is.
Having survived that (I told you to take a deep breath in Superior) you've earned a break at Perkin's. Turn left at the top of the hill to get there. Afterward, you can test your speedometer and odometer in the specially marked "Odometer test zone" with signs at regular intervals to compare with your own odometer for accuracies sake.
Outside of Duluth, be sure to watch for the Hockey Hall of Fame in Evelyth as well as the Iron Range cities of Hibbing and Virginia. In the middle of nowhere, mixed in among the railroad shacks and hunting cottages, is the Potlatch plant. At night, the combination of factory lighting and steam in the woods make for an eerie sight.
At some point after Duluth, you can begin to follow your nose to International Falls, also known as Frostbite Falls, home to Rocket J. Squirrel and Bullwinkle J. Moose. Did you know the Simpsons all have the middle initial J as a tribute to Jay Ward, creator of Rocky and Bullwinkle? Or that Rocky and Bullwinkle was banned in Canada for its negative portrayal of Mounties? There is no mention of the pair in "the Falls" but there is a statue of Smoky Bear. There are several pictures of me and my brother in front of the statue.
In International Falls, you will see a plethora of Duty Free stores advertising tobacco and alcohol. Don't fall into the trap, I told you to get that stuff in Eau Claire where it's cheap. Do be sure to stop in the Delta filling station. This was another tradition, so humor me. There is an IGA (Independent Grocers Association) store in the mall, such as it is, west of town. Rules are constantly changing about food so check first.
BEFORE YOU APPROACH THE BORDER...a few words about etiquette. There is a bridge to cross to enter Canada at this point. It is owned by the paper mill (the funny smell you began to notice just north of Duluth) and shared with trains, pulp trucks, bicycles and pedestrians. Be patient. Tidy up the car a bit and be sure everyone looks somewhat reputable. Open the ash tray and have your stuff in order. Border guards are a generally friendly lot, don't get smart and they tend to leave you alone. They all have favourite tricks like asking kids questions, especially about fireworks and the like. A common practice is to reach in and poke in your ash tray. I always have change in mine. Remember, if you get cranky or touchy, they can take your car apart and leave you to put it back together.
Welcome to Canada!!!!!
Next time - - - What do I do now that I got this far????
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