We crossed the border, now what...

In my last post, I provided directions from Chicago to Frostbite Falls.  Today we will continue on the Gohere Bay.  Mind you, these directions were from several years ago and things are constantly changing, but the general route is the same.

On to Gohere Bay -

"Welcome to Canada!!" read the sign that spans Fort Frances main road when entered from the International Bridge that crosses International Falls on the Rainy River as it nears its terminus on Rainy Lake.  Rainy Lake is pretty and scenic in a pastoral way, lacking the drama of Lake of the Woods.  The shorelines are less dramatic and islands more sparse.  There are fewer towering rock formations and more places where the land seems to slip into the rippling waters. Just east of town is Pither's Point, a spot where founding fathers are believed to have camped.  A lovely park, complete with a real ranger station, as well as a salvaged logging boat occupy the park along with the areas largest log chair.  A great photo opportunity.

Back to our trip, Fort Frances is home to decent shopping but it's better left for the return trip.  Right now, we need to reach Nestor Falls before dinner.  Turn left at the stoplight after the welcome sign.  In Ontario, a flashing green light indicates an 'advanced green' or protected left turn as we like to call it here.  Highway 11 winds through Fort Frances past all our favourite places such as Canadian Tire and the McDonald's.  As  you leave town, you may notice a corridor of deciduous trees lining the road on either side.  I was once told this is a memorial to WWII soldiers lost in combat, one tree for each local man who did not return home.  I don't know if it's true, but it makes for a nice reflection.

Eventually, the city fades and the open road beckons, but beware, that speed limit sign that says 90 is actually kilometers and the OPP know very well what you're thinking.  Ontario, by the way, is one of only two provinces with their own Provincial Police departments.  Mounties take care of the rest.  In case you're wondering, Quebec is the other, go figure.

After a bit of winding, the metropolis of Emo is next.  Emo is an exercise in urban planning with such creative nomenclature as Emo Road Number 1, 2 etc and Front Street (faces the river).  Emo is nestled along the Rainy River and hosts a hospital/nursing home and the area's poison control center (that's a whole nother story).  There is also a decent hardware store, fairgrounds and race track.

After Emo is Devlin, essentially a gas station and general store, then La Vallee (did you know he wrote Oh Canada?).  You will then see a sign for pedestrian crossing and a sign welcoming you to the Reservation, the official name escapes me now.  Notice that the speed limit changes.  When on a reservation, you are in a different country and they take it seriously.  They have their own police and are rumoured to stop OPP's to check for contraband.  A stop sign is up ahead.  Sometimes there is an antique store or farm stand that pops up here. Turn right at the stop sign after coming to a full and complete stop.

You may notice along the roadside, two large metal barrels mounted on metal stands.  These are for straightening logging loads.  In Minnesota, the logging truck carriend loads neatly cut into standard lengths and loaded crosswise on the trailers.  Up here, the logs are loaded lengthwise and are often cut in random lengths, 'rough cuts' they're called.  As such, they tend to shift from time to time.  If you're lucky, you may see a truck back the trailer betweent the giant barrels to straighten the load.  DO NOT try this with your car.  The consequences can be severe.

Also along this stretch of road, you will notice a looooong stretch with no curves, eleven miles to be exact.  Off to the side, you may see stretches of old pavement, abandoned as the road was straightened, bit by bit, through marshes, passes blasted through granite and bridges replaced.  The history lives on in names such as Mather Township, home to Mather Creeks 1 through 16, Mather Road East, West, Slightly Less West etc.  There is also Finland.  I recall a collection of tiny log buildings that appeared to be remnants of a farm near the sign for Finland.  Wonder if it's still there....

HEADS UP!!!  The stretch of eleven miles without a turn (I've measured it on my odometer many times, not much else to do) ends with a long downhill stretch followed by a 90 degree left turn along a granite outcropping with water on the left side.  A rather startling arrangement and definite wake-up call.  You are now in lake country.  Big Pine Lake, Little Pine Lake, One Sided Lake.  The road winds between lakes and creeks, the granite of the Canadian Shield rising and falling, trees clinging precariously to crevaces in the rock face until suddenly, Nestor Falls. 

Your entry to the Falls is noted by the old Esso station that now sells Mercury outboards (or did) and Dock Road which leads, oddly enough, to the Goverment Dock.  The Falls are straight ahead, after Helliar's and before Arrowhead.  The actual falls in Nestor Falls are due to a change in elevation between Lake Kakabikitchewan (Crow Lake for short) and Lake of the Woods.  Proceeding along the highway, are Sunset Cove, Willards Corner (see earlier post) and, eventually, Lawg Caybun restaurant, a hardware store, the sight of Willard's old store and Dalseg's IGA.  This is Nestor Falls answer to a strip mall, housing the post office, laundrymat, grocery store and LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario), the only place to buy alcoholic beverages and since the government is involved, the prices are pretty hefty (I told you to stop at Bob's in Eau Claire, did you listen?).             

From here, call the camp and, as the brochures always read, "We will transport you to the camp in our large, enclosed runabout". 

So to summarize -

• Take your favourite route to Wisconsin
• Turn right on Rte 53
• Cross the bridge between Superior and Duluth
• Follow your nose to International Falls
• Turn left at the light
• Turn right at the Indian Reservation
• Stop at the next wide spot in the road
• Call for a ride to Camp

Hope to see you there this summer!!

Driving Directions

Several years ago, I gave directions to the Camp at Gohere Bay to some friends who were coming up for a long weekend.  Since they were first-time visitors, I added a few travel notes for them to take in along the way.  All these years and nearly as many changes in e-mail addresses later, I came across these directions and wanted to share them with my followers, in case you wanted to join us for an evening or two with a beer wedged between the rocks with the cool sparkling waters of Gohere Bay to keep it cold.

Note - Directions are from the Chicago area

Directions to Gohere Bay - Take your favourite route out of Chicago.  Heading out of Chicago, there is no one best way to leave the city or the state, as the traffic is so variable.  My father was a huge fan of Route 47 that winds through Yorkville and farmland area.  It is rather twisty and hilly so may not be best if you're pulling a boat or haven't yet finished your first cup of coffee.  From Joliet, I like to take Route 52 west to Interstate 39, a lightly travelled patch of road.  Route 53 works well , though has been overrun by the new 355 tollway in many areas.

Once you have escaped the congestion of Chicago, you should find yourself on Interstate 90-94.  This is known in parts as the Veteran's Memorial Parkway or some such.  It is rather scenic, especially further along.  The traffic really thins out after the exits for the Dells and Mirror Lake but the toll collectors don't.  I learned on my honeymoon that Wisconsin State Troopers gladly accept all major credit cards and can run them conveniently from their dashboard.  It should be noted here that Wisconsin troopers drive stylishly dark green patrol cars that blend remarkably well with the scenic pine trees and such.

In Wisconsin, you will also notice a strange calmness from the steering wheel as they seem to have developed a vaccine for potholes that Illinois is seriously lacking.  The highways are silky smooth and they have a whole other idea of divided highways.  There are no flimsy metal dividers or threatening concrete barriers, but real, honest to goodness trees.  And when they say divided, I'm talking lanes divided by nearly half a mile of forest or a hundred feet in elevation.  All this provides lots of shady spots for those friendly troopers to rest while waiting for flat-landers and others. 

The scenery can become redundant as the road straightens out.  But keep an eye out for Moccasin Mike Road, no particular history, just like the name.  All in all, this part of the trip should be about six or seven hours to Eau Claire, the traditional halfway point for us.  The Oasis in Janesville is a popular stop and, at one time, was a busy rest spot on the main road, Route 53.  Now it requires an exit from the interstate and is more tourist trap than anything, but nostalgia being what it is, I can almost picture the curtains in the back windows of the station wagon.  The Dells can be an interesting stop, if you don't mind the traffic and crowds. 

Take the exit for 53 North to Eau Claire.  Eau Claire sits on the Chippewa River and is consistently listed among the most livable towns in America, whatever that means.  For you, Eau Claire means a great place to stop, stay overnight if you're tired or get food.  It also is the best place to pick up adult supplies such as beer or Canadian whisky.  That's right, don't wait for the "Duty Free" stores at the border.  The liquor is duty free no matter where you bought it so long as you don't have too much.  Typically a bottle per person of legal drinking age.  There are many places, I recommend Bob's.  Have you ever seen an alcohol warehouse?

This is also the last of your major chain restaurants for a while so have a last Pizza Hut of Taco Bell. 

As you leave Eau Claire, you will notice that Rte 53 is NOT an Interstate Highway.  The billboards are 20 feet high and 10 feet wide in reflective yellow with black letters.  What that means for the average traveller is that the federal speed limit allowing 65 mph is not in effect here.  55 is the rule for the most part, but there are tons of small towns with limits of 45, 35 and even 25.  BE CAREFUL.  The road is still Wisconsin's version of divided highway with interesting overpasses and, in many places, railroad tracks nearby.  You will also notice as you head north that the roads begin to turn red.  This is due to the iron content in the road mix.  You will also notice that steep hills have two lanes headed uphill and only one coming down.  Slower traffic to the right please and if you're driving the diesel with the heavy boat, that means you pull over and let others go by.  On the way down, no passing is allowed in these areas.  I'm not sure if you've ever been face to face with a logging truck, but it's not a good feeling.  Also keep an eye out for Smitty's bar and restaurant and the Woodcarver's Museum in Spooner.  This used to be on the main road, but now requires a side trip.

As thing start to leave out, you will close in on Superior, Wisconsin.  Stop here and take a deep breath, look out at the majesty of Lake Superior, the biggest and nastiest of the Great Lakes.  There are iron ore boats and museums as well as a huge mansion overlooking the Lake that was an orphanage for many years and is now a museum.  On the right is one of the most scenically placed McDonald's anywhere.  There is also a gas station along the right hand side of the road, near a bait shop, that has a pink rocket near the front of the lot.  Just saying....

Now, after a deep breath, make sure you have the correct driver for the next leg.  It's a doozy.  Rte 53 will take you to Duluth, Minnesota, provided you remember to get off the Rte 2 loop that will take you endlessly to the seedier side of Superior.  Once on the correct road, you will be twisted and looped until you find yourself about a mile above the water (hey, they need to get ore boats through).  At this dizzying height, it may be difficult to concentrate, the highway department was kind enough to install green posts to block oncoming headlights, but one wrong turn sends you to Minneapolis (and really, who wants to go there).  Should you survive the high level bridge (and I do mean high level), you will find yourself nearly back at lake level and looking up.  Straight up.  I have always wanted to own a brake shop in Duluth, maybe transmission repair as well.  The main street through town is a serious test for the best of transmission cooling systems.  Add in boats, manual transmissions and weekend drivers and it becomes a harrowing trip with a four-way stop in the middle. 

There's a house along this road that is three stories on one side and a single story on the other side, that's how steep the hill is.

Having survived that (I told you to take a deep breath in Superior) you've earned  a break at Perkin's.  Turn left at the top of the hill to get there.  Afterward, you can test your speedometer and odometer in the specially marked "Odometer test zone" with signs at regular intervals to compare with your own odometer for accuracies sake.

Outside of Duluth, be sure to watch for the Hockey Hall of Fame in Evelyth as well as the Iron Range cities of Hibbing and Virginia.  In the middle of nowhere, mixed in among the railroad shacks and hunting cottages, is the Potlatch plant.  At night, the combination of factory lighting and steam in the woods make for an eerie sight.

At some point after Duluth, you can begin to follow your nose to International Falls, also known as Frostbite Falls, home to Rocket J. Squirrel and Bullwinkle J. Moose.  Did you know the Simpsons all have the middle initial J as a tribute to Jay Ward, creator of Rocky and Bullwinkle?  Or that Rocky and Bullwinkle was banned in Canada for its negative portrayal of Mounties?  There is no mention of the pair in "the Falls" but there is a statue of Smoky Bear.  There are several pictures of me and my brother in front of the statue.

In International Falls, you will see a plethora of Duty Free stores advertising tobacco and alcohol.  Don't fall into the trap, I told you to get that stuff in Eau Claire where it's cheap.  Do be sure to stop in the Delta filling station.  This was another tradition, so humor me.  There is an IGA (Independent Grocers Association) store in the mall, such as it is, west of town.  Rules are constantly changing about food so check first.

BEFORE YOU APPROACH THE BORDER...a few words about etiquette.  There is a bridge to cross to enter Canada at this point.  It is owned by the paper mill (the funny smell you began to notice just north of Duluth) and shared with trains, pulp trucks, bicycles and pedestrians.  Be patient.  Tidy up the car a bit and be sure everyone looks somewhat reputable.  Open the ash tray and have your stuff in order. Border guards are a generally friendly lot, don't get smart and they tend to leave you alone.  They all have favourite tricks like asking kids questions, especially about fireworks and the like.  A common practice is to reach in and poke in your ash tray.  I always have change in mine.  Remember, if you get cranky or touchy, they can take your car apart and leave you to put it back together.

Welcome to Canada!!!!!

Next time - - - What do I do now that I got this far????

From Wee Island to the Camp

The cottage at Wee Island was well appointed for summer living.  Raised on pilings, it allowed for good venitlation.  Large windows offered beautiful lake views in any direction and the open floor plan, with vaulted ceilings, gave an airiness to the pine building.  It was a lovely place in summer, but not so in the chill of early April, when temperatures dove into the 20's overnight.  A fire in the old franklin stove took a bit of the edge off, but required constant tending.

In the morning, bleary eyed and smoky, Willard trudged through melting snow to the dock where ice had re-formed overnight in the still and frosty air.  The boat was ice-bound.  Hopefully the morning sun would melt the ice and allow them to leave.  Breakfast and, later, lunch passed reading, planning, listening to the radio for weather forecasts and hoping for a little wind to start the melt again.

Just after lunch, a southerly wind began to whip at the pines sheltering the cottage.  At the southern edge of Wee Island, the ice began to ripple as it broke into pieces. The boat loaded and Wee Island secured for another day, Willard and Mary headed south toward Gohere Bay.  The going was slow at first as they broke through remaining sheets of ice, nudging the boat gently onto the ice before it settled through.  Once they reached the eastern edge of Wolf Island, the water cleared and Willard opened up the throttle as, after a ten year absence, they returned to the Camp at Gohere Bay.

Spring in Gohere Bay

As the earth tilts and days grow longer, winter begins to ease its grip on Gohere Bay.  Ice gives way to open water in the sunny channels while clinging to islands and bays.  Watersheds swell and creeks rise and run with melted snow from rocky outcrops where the great Canadian shield pokes through moss and dirt.  Weather, so wildly variable throughout summer and winter, is no more forgiving this time of year, with temperatures rising and falling, seemingly at random. 

In older days, when the ice roads were used to access hunting blinds or trap lines, trucks and cars travelled the frozen lake, sometimes ending their journeys prematurely.  They would be parked on whatever piece of land was nearby, usually next to or between pine trees, the most reliable indicator of land beneath the snow.

Often, forgotten or abandoned cars would spend entire summers on tiny reef-islands barely bigger than the vehicle itself.

In spring, sudden changes of temperature are common, combined with shifting winds, a channel open one day, may be an ice jam the next.  Ice that seemed sure underfoot in the morning, would disappear by lunchtime.

Such was the case one spring as Willard and Mary ventured out onto Sabaskong Bay.  After foreclosure proceedings granted them title to the camp once again, they were anxious to assess the condition of the camp.  There had been a trip during the winter to check inventory such as beds and blankets and such, however boats were buried under thick snow drifts and cabins had been winterized, hopefully.  They arrived in mid-April and found the cove at the Government Dock ice-packed and checked into a hotel.  Next day, they were able to reach Paradise Island before ice could be seen.  As the day went on, temperatures rose and a southerly wind kicked up.  The warm up continued overnight and the party headed out next morning with high hopes.

They nudged carefully through slushy water around the point past Paradise Island, Jensen's Island and were nearly to Pingaree when a solid bump against the hull caught Willard's attention.  Easing back on the throttle, he crept onward through chunks of soft ice, leaving a wake that resembled a stirred cocktail.  The wind had died and the sky was grey and overcast as they passed Cyclone Point.  The motor echoed through an otherwise eerie silence.  There was a decision, cross the bay toward Wolf Island or turn west to Wee Island.  The run to Wolf Island was about two miles, Wee Island was about three-quarter mile.  Besides, what would happen when they passed Wolf Island?  Would Gohere Bay be open water?  Pack ice?  Frozen solid?  It was too late in the day to risk being stuck in the cold overnight.  Willard nudged the wheel toward the west.